In the heart of Barolo, where tradition meets evolution, Azienda Agricola Cogno thrives on a philosophy that rejects perfection in favor of authenticity. “If making a perfect wine means making a standard wine, then we don’t want to make perfect wines,” say Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore. Their commitment is to the land—specifically, the Ravera cru in Novello, where biodiversity and heritage drive every decision.
This story begins with Elvio Cogno, born in 1936, who transformed his family’s passion into a profession. At 60, he took a risk, betting on Ravera’s untapped potential, long before it gained recognition as a premier Additional Geographic Mention (MeGA) in Barolo. His gamble paid off—today, Cogno owns the largest vineyard estate in Ravera, a high-altitude terroir that uniquely withstands climate change.
Since 1996, Elvio’s daughter Nadia and her husband Valter have led the winery, honoring its roots while embracing innovation. Their approach remains steadfast: let the land speak through the wine.
From Restaurateur to Visionary
Elvio’s journey began not in vineyards but in a restaurant—Ristorante dell’Angelo in La Morra. There, he realized the importance of not just serving wine but making it. Partnering with Marcarini winery in the 1950s, he helped craft the 1961 Barolo vintage. By 1964, he pioneered terroir-focused labeling, putting “Brunate” on bottles, a bold move that would become industry standard.
The 1970s and ‘80s saw Barolo rise to global fame, and by 1990, Elvio was ready for his next leap. He purchased Cascina Nuova, an 18th-century farmhouse in Ravera, committing fully to this overlooked cru. It was a decision fueled by instinct and deep conviction—he believed Ravera could produce wines as great as any in Barolo.
Elvio’s vision extended beyond winemaking; he cultivated relationships that helped elevate Barolo’s reputation. He shared ideas with pioneers like Renato Ratti and Count Cordero di Montezemolo, while cultural icons like Gino Veronelli, Ave Ninchi, and Nanni Loy were drawn to his wines.
A Family’s Reluctant, Yet Inevitable, Embrace
For Nadia, wine was never the plan. As a child, she resented the sacrifices winemaking demanded—long days, stained hands, missed summer vacations. Yet, something about the process captivated her. At five, she described the tannins of Barolo as “the scent of snow,” an intuitive understanding of wine’s complexity.
Her path changed when she met Valter, whose devotion to winemaking was unwavering. Together, they built on Elvio’s foundation, with Valter leading production and Nadia managing the business. “To make wine, you need a vision,” says Valter, emphasizing their commitment to terroir-driven winemaking.
Preserving Biodiversity in the Vineyards
At the core of Cogno’s philosophy is biodiversity. Nebbiolo’s many biotypes—Lampia, Michet, and Rosé—are cultivated separately, allowing each to express its full potential. The winery’s Barbera Pre-Phylloxera vineyard, with vines over a century old, is a testament to preserving heritage.
Their dedication extends to sustainable farming: no chemical herbicides for 15 years, organic composting, and natural pest control. “The vine behaves like the human body,” Valter explains. “If we rely too much on medicine, we weaken immunity. But with balance, we thrive.”
A Winery That Listens to the Land
In the cellar, tradition meets restraint. Indigenous yeasts maintain the wine’s identity, while long fermentations and submerged cap macerations extract depth without force. Large Slavonian oak barrels allow aging without overpowering the wine. The result? Barolos that balance power with elegance, structure with freshness.
Each vineyard tells a different story:
- Ravera, the estate’s flagship, produces wines known for minerality and longevity.
- Vigna Elena, planted in 1991 and dedicated to Nebbiolo Rosé, delivers floral complexity.
- Bricco Pernice, Elvio’s dream vineyard, yields a Barolo of richness and depth.
- Cascina Nuova, with younger vines, offers an approachable introduction to Barolo.
- Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera is a rare glimpse into a past untouched by modern grafting.
- Nas-Cëtta, a once-forgotten indigenous white grape, was revived thanks to Cogno’s efforts, earning its own DOC in 2010.
Beyond Wine: A Destination in Barolo
Today, Cascina Nuova is more than a winery—it’s an experience. Perched at 380 meters above sea level, overlooking a natural amphitheater, it welcomes visitors to taste the essence of Ravera. Through guided tours and personal tastings, Cogno offers a deeper understanding of Barolo’s soul.
This is not just a story of wine, but of legacy, risk, and the relentless pursuit of authenticity. In every bottle, the Cogno family continues to defy convention—not seeking perfection, but something far more enduring: a true expression of place.
